Buying

How to choose the right log burner for your living room

Most people start by looking at stoves. It is the enjoyable part, and there is nothing wrong with it, but the appliance is the last decision that should be made rather than the first. Get the output and the opening right and almost any decent stove will do a good job. Get them wrong and the best stove in the showroom will disappoint you.

Supplied and fitted by Simply Stoves NE

Work out the output first

Stove output is measured in kilowatts, and it is the single most important number in the decision. The rough method most of the trade uses is to work out the volume of the room in cubic metres, then divide by fourteen.

So a living room four metres by four metres with a two and a half metre ceiling is forty cubic metres, which comes out at roughly a three kilowatt stove. Most people find that surprisingly small, which is exactly the point.

A rough guide, not a specification. That calculation assumes a reasonably insulated modern room. An older solid wall property, a room with large windows, or an open plan space that flows into a hallway all change the answer. It is a starting point for a conversation, not a number to order from.

Why oversizing is the most common mistake

It is the fault we are called out to correct more than any other. The thinking is understandable: a bigger stove must be better value, and you can always run it lower.

The problem is that a stove run low does not burn cleanly. It smoulders. Flue gases leave the appliance cooler, cool further on the way up the chimney, and deposit tar on the way. Over a season that tar builds up, and tar in a flue is both a performance problem and a fire risk.

An oversized stove also makes the room uncomfortable. You end up opening a window in January, which rather defeats the purpose.

A correctly sized stove run properly hot is cleaner, cheaper to run, kinder to the liner and better to sit next to. There is no upside to going bigger.

Freestanding or inset

A freestanding stove sits forward on the hearth with the flue rising behind it. An inset model sits back into the chamber, closer to a traditional fireplace look.

  • Freestanding radiates heat from more surfaces, so it warms a room faster. It needs more depth in front of the chamber.
  • Inset is neater and takes up less floor space, which suits a smaller room or a through lounge where circulation matters.
  • Depth decides it more often than taste. We measure the chamber at the survey and tell you which will actually fit.

What the chimney breast allows

The opening behind the stove is not fixed. On most jobs we open the chamber up to a suitable size as part of the installation, typically around a metre wide by nine hundred high, depending on the width of the breast and where the lintel sits.

That matters for two reasons. It sets which appliances will physically fit, and it decides how much of a feature the finish becomes. A generous chamber finished in brick slip or tile looks like part of the room. A cramped one looks like a hole with a stove in it.

If your property has no chimney at all, that is not the end of it. A twin wall flue system builds a flue where there was not one, running internally or up an external wall.

Eco Design and smoke control areas

Every new stove sold in the UK since January 2022 has had to meet Ecodesign standards, which cap emissions and set a minimum efficiency. Every stove we supply meets it.

The point that catches people out is smoke control areas, which cover much of Tyne and Wear. In one, you can only burn authorised fuel or use an appliance DEFRA has exempted. All of the brands we supply are suitable for use in a smoke control area, so it is not something you need to research yourself.

What we would ask at the survey

A free survey takes about half an hour and answers most of this properly rather than approximately. What we are looking at:

  • Room dimensions and how well the property holds heat
  • The width, depth and condition of the chimney breast
  • Whether the stack is serviceable, and whether it needs lining
  • Hearth requirements and what the floor will take
  • Ventilation, which changes above five kilowatts
  • What you actually want it to look like

We would rather talk you out of the wrong appliance than sell you the biggest one we stock. It saves an awkward conversation a year later.

Thinking about a stove? Free survey, in person or remotely from photographs, and a fixed price in writing before anything is booked. Book a free survey

Seven steps to choose the right log burner

A practical order to work through, from measuring the room to seeing the stove lit.

Choose the right log burner for your living room

1. Measure the room

The first step to choose the right log burner is working out how much heat the room needs. Multiply length, width and ceiling height in metres to get the volume, then divide by fourteen for a rough output in kilowatts. A four by four metre room with a two and a half metre ceiling comes out at about three kilowatts.

2. Adjust for how the house holds heat

That figure assumes a reasonably insulated modern room. Solid stone or brick walls, big single glazed windows, or an open plan space that flows into a hallway all push it up. A new build or a well insulated extension may need less. When we help customers choose the right log burner, this adjustment is where experience matters most.

3. Decide on the fuel

A wood burning stove burns logs only. A multi-fuel stove burns logs or approved smokeless fuel, giving a longer, steadier burn. If you have a reliable supply of dry logs and somewhere to store them, wood is simpler. If storage is tight, multi-fuel gives you options.

4. Check the chimney, or plan a flue

You cannot choose the right log burner without knowing what flue it will connect to. An existing chimney almost always needs a liner sized to the stove. No chimney means a twin wall insulated flue. Some stoves need a 6 inch flue rather than 5 inch, which can rule them out of a particular chimney. Our page on flue and chimney systems explains both routes.

How to choose the right log burner for a chimney breast

5. Measure the chamber

Freestanding stoves sit forward on the hearth and need depth in front of the chamber. Inset stoves sit back into the opening and need enough depth behind. Every stove also needs set clearances to combustible materials such as a timber beam or skirting. Measuring the chamber properly is the step most people skip when they try to choose the right log burner from a website.

6. Check the smoke control rules

Much of Tyne and Wear is a smoke control area, where you need an exempt appliance or authorised fuel. The GOV.UK smoke control rules explain the detail. Every stove we supply is suitable, so this only becomes a problem if you buy elsewhere.

7. Pick a brand you can still get parts for

Rope, glass and baffles wear out over the years. To choose the right log burner for the long term, pick an established make whose parts will still be available in ten years. Our stove and flue brands page lists the ones we fit.

Then see it lit

A stove looks different lit in a room than on a page. The Hebburn showroom has stoves on display alongside hearths, chambers and beams, and it is the quickest way to choose the right log burner for how your room looks as well as how it heats.

Mistakes to avoid when you choose the right log burner

The things we see go wrong most often, and how to avoid them.

Avoid mistakes when you choose the right log burner

Buying the biggest stove you can afford

The most common mistake by far. An oversized stove run low to stop the room overheating smoulders instead of burning. The glass blackens, tar builds up in the liner and fuel is wasted. To choose the right log burner, aim for the output the room needs, not the most the chamber will take.

Buying online before the survey

A stove bought online may be the wrong size, need a larger flue than your chimney can take, or need more depth than your chamber has. Have the survey first, then choose. We will fit a stove you have already bought if it suits, but we would rather help you choose the right log burner before you spend anything.

Forgetting ventilation

Above five kilowatts, Building Regulations require a permanent air vent into the room. In very airtight modern houses one may be needed below that. It is easy to forget, and it affects both cost and comfort.

Choosing on looks alone

You cannot choose the right log burner on looks alone. Looks matter, and there is a stove to suit every room. But the output, the flue size and the chamber depth come first. Get those right, then choose the look from the stoves that fit.

Burning wet wood

Even after you choose the right log burner, wet wood will make it perform badly. Logs should be under 20% moisture. Plenty of people choose the right log burner and then blame it for smoke that is really coming from damp logs. A cheap moisture meter will tell you, and in England wood sold in small quantities has to carry the Ready to Burn mark.

If you want help to choose the right log burner for your room, book a free survey. We check the room, the chimney and the chamber, and give you a fixed price in writing. You can check our registration on the HETAS register.

Choose the right log burner: worked examples

Five typical North East rooms, and the stove that usually suits each.

Worked examples to choose the right log burner

A terraced front room

Say four metres by three and a half, with a two and a half metre ceiling. That is 35 cubic metres, or about two and a half kilowatts by the rule of thumb. Solid brick walls and an old bay window push it up a little, so to choose the right log burner here we would look at around three to four kilowatts, almost certainly on a 5 inch liner down the original stack.

A Victorian through lounge

Seven metres by four with a three metre ceiling is 84 cubic metres, roughly six kilowatts. Above five kilowatts a permanent air vent is needed. A freestanding stove in the chimney breast heats a long room better than an inset one, so to choose the right log burner for a through lounge we usually suggest freestanding, sized to the room rather than the chamber.

A new build living room with no chimney

Five metres by four with a two and a quarter metre ceiling is 45 cubic metres, about three kilowatts, and a new build holds heat well, so possibly less. With no chimney the stove goes on a twin wall flue. To choose the right log burner here, the flue route and the airtightness of the house matter as much as the output.

An open plan kitchen and living space

Large open plan rooms are where people most often oversize. The stove heats the area it can see, not the far end of the kitchen, so we size it to the living area and accept the kitchen will be warmed second hand. That is usually the best way to choose the right log burner for a big open space.

A cottage with a stone breast

Small rooms, thick walls and a deep stone chimney breast. The room may only need three kilowatts, but the chamber could take something far bigger. Resisting that temptation is the key to choose the right log burner in a cottage: a small stove run hot will be cleaner and far more comfortable than a big one run low.

None of these is a specification. They show how the numbers work, and why the survey matters before you choose the right log burner for your own room.

A quick checklist

If you only remember one thing from this guide, make it this order. To choose the right log burner, start with the room, then the flue, then the chamber, and only then the look. Most people do it the other way round, falling for a stove in a brochure and then trying to make it fit. That is the opposite of how to choose the right log burner, and it is how rooms end up with stoves that are too big, too deep or on the wrong size liner.

Work through it in the right order and you will choose the right log burner first time. If you would like a second opinion, bring your room measurements to the Hebburn showroom, or book a free survey and we will help you choose the right log burner for your house, with a fixed price in writing and no obligation.

Common questions

The things people ask us most often about this.

What size log burner do I need for an average living room?

For a typical four by four metre room with standard ceilings, usually around three to five kilowatts. Room volume divided by fourteen is the rough guide, but insulation, window area and whether the room is open plan all change it. We work it out properly at the free survey.

Is a bigger stove better value?

No. An oversized stove run low smoulders rather than burns, which tars the flue and wastes fuel. A correctly sized stove run hot is cleaner, cheaper to run and more comfortable to sit next to.

Can I have a log burner without a chimney?

Yes. A twin wall insulated flue system builds a flue where there is not one, either routed internally through the ceilings or up an external wall. It is designed around the property at the survey.

Do I need extra ventilation?

Above five kilowatts, yes, an air vent is required. Below that it depends on the age and airtightness of the property. It is one of the things we check before recommending an output.

Ready to get a price?

Tell us a little about the room and the chimney and we will give you a fixed price in writing. We can survey in person, or remotely from photos and Google Maps. No charge and no obligation.

Showroom
Unit 8J, Victoria RoadIndustrial Estate, Hebburn NE31 1UB
Hours
Tue to Fri, 9am to 3.30pmSat 10am to 2.30pm, Mon by appointment